Photo courtesy of Martin Hay

Monday, 30 April 2012

Getting the itch

The return of the rainy season is beautiful - it's cooler, we get dramatic rainstorms and, well, it's cooler! But the one small snag is the return of the mosquitoes. I don't know about you, but I'm the kind of person who swells up when I get bitten by mosquitoes, it's like a form of torture for me.

Tonight I finished my run at UNMISS and was mulling over the happenings of the day as I stretched out my limbs until dusk fell. Immediately I was set upon by 100, no, 1000 mosquitoes biting all over me, feeling the tingle as each bite turned into an excruciating undeniable itch! Look what they did to my ear!!

Ouch.
Seriously, mosquitoes are the most pointless and annoying creature there is - I challenge you to name one good thing they do for our world... just one!

And, before the advice starts flooding in, yes, I'll be sure to put on insect repellent next time. Although, I draw the line at putting it on my ears, ridiculous.

Tuesday, 17 April 2012

War on the border

I know this is cheating, but this is the most detailed description I have yet found for what is happening on the border of South Sudan and Sudan at present and I felt I had to mention something.

"Nine months after Sudan split into two nations in search of a peace brokered by the United States, it is now clear that the two sides are at war.
Diplomats discussing the armed conflict talk of skirmishes and dustups, but a visit to this border region shows that what is taking place here is no accidental exchange of fire by troops confused about where the border lies. Instead, what’s happening is a headlong mobilization involving not just thousands of Sudan’s and South Sudan’s best forces and heaviest equipment, but heavily armed rebels from the distant Darfur region fighting alongside the South Sudanese troops.
Whether an emergency peace plan could curb the escalation remains to be seen. But neither side is talking to the other, and the mood here is weighted with the sober intensity of wartime.
On Sunday evening in a looted Sudanese garrison in Heglig, South Sudanese generals drew military positions in the sand with a curtain rod. They were expecting an imminent counteroffensive by Sudanese troops. Soldiers stood by, twitching, on edge.
Suddenly, missiles rained in, and artillery pounded the earth behind.
"We are under attack," yelled South Sudan’s Maj. Gen. Mangar Buong, the commander. Troops scurried, trucks spun out.
The international community has condemned the fighting and has called on South Sudan to withdraw. But its leader, Salva Kiir, has publicly refused to do so.
The fighting started last week on the road to Heglig, an oil outpost with a military base that had long been controlled by Sudan. The two sides faced off at a de facto border point marked now only by the start of a miles-long trail north of rotting corpses and feasting birds.
Who fired first is unclear, but from there, the fight spread northward to Heglig, which fell to the South Sudanese army a week ago.
Heglig now is a reeking graveyard of carnage. Two destroyed tanks sit on the road. Scraps cover the red dirt and debris floats in the dry wind. Battered signs proclaiming the Chinese-led oil consortium that worked here poke above heaps of loot from its offices _ chairs, file cabinets, TVs, refrigerators _ waiting to be hauled south as bounty.
Meanwhile, hundreds of South Sudanese soldiers stream up the road in large trucks to join the fight as Sudanese war planes hunt from above, pummeling the ground with bombs and rockets.
The South Sudanese army is using the captured Sudanese garrison in Heglig as a forward operating base. Soldiers pick through piles of clothes and half-finished meals while peeking at the sky in fear of the Sudanese planes above.
Stores of weapons were left behind, including crates of anti-personnel mines, banned under a treaty Sudan ratified in 2003.
The conflict is not new. Ever since British colonialism handed power to Sudan’s northern, Arab elite in the 1950s, war between the two sides has been an off-and-on affair.
But that war was supposed to have ended with the creation last year of South Sudan as an independent nation _ at least, that was the hope of the U.S. and Western allies who brokered the 2005 peace deal that gave South Sudan the right to split away.
Instead, the splitting of Sudan now appears only to have turned an internal war into an international one, with much more firepower on all sides.
The new dimensions of this old conflict are starkly evident on the front lines. The South Sudanese army is no longer the guerrilla force of old, but sports its own tanks, anti-aircraft weapons and sovereign land.
It’s joined by rebels from the Justice and Equality Movement group, who swooped in from Darfur laden with vehicles and heavy weapons, some likely from Libya.
The Darfur rebels have been fighting against the Sudanese government for years and have joined this new front with gusto. Their trucks are scrawled in Arabic and mounted with heavy weaponry, including one large anti-aircraft gun.
"JEM oyee!" yelled one fighter in a green tank top and dirtied white turban as he pulled to a stop, beer can in one hand and steering wheel in the other. A machine gun was mounted on the passenger seat, in front of his boyish sidekick.
The alliance with the Darfur group raises questions about South Sudan’s plan and how far it intends to press the battle.
Brig. Gen. Makal Kuol Deng, in command of Heglig, said he did not know what the end goal was. "If they (headquarters) say go ahead, we go ahead. If they say stop, we stop," he said.
Other South Sudanese military officials say that they have no intention of pushing far north, into what they consider proper Sudanese territory, and only want to defend their border.
But the presence of the JEM rebels from Darfur, who are seeking to overthrow the government of Sudanese President Omar al Bashir, suggests otherwise. JEM and a weaker Darfur rebel group, the Sudan Liberation Army, have joined up with South Sudan-aligned rebels in Sudan’s Nuba Mountains and Blue Nile. Together, the rebel alliance calls itself the Sudan Revolutionary Force.
The Sudanese army is better armed, but it seems drawn thin and disillusioned. In the Nuba Mountains, the rebels have been making surprising gains against the government forces. Here, it appears that the Sudanese army withdrew suddenly without a spirited fight.
There is no foreseeable endgame. The one hope for peace is that neither side can afford war for long. Landlocked South Sudan shut down its oil production in January, unable to reach an export deal with Sudan. Now, with Heglig’s oilfields shut down as well, Sudan, too, is facing a currency crisis.
Logic and sober analysis, however, overlook the depth of bitterness felt by both sides and the comfort with which a population that barely knows what peacetime means accepts violence and destruction.
Careening down the road back southward, the South Sudanese soldiers pointed at the corpses outside, dozens of Sudanese soldiers who’d died in battle. Stripped of boots and valuables, denied a Muslim burial, they decay out in the open. The air reeks of death. "Jellaba," the South Sudanese say, using derisive slang.
(Boswell is a McClatchy special correspondent. His reporting is underwritten in part by a grant from Humanity United, a California-based foundation that focuses on human rights issues.)" 

Tuesday, 10 April 2012

What happens when the water tanks run low

So, occasionally, our water tanks run low and all the sediment rushes into our sinks and toilets. This is what it looks like:

Nile Sand hand-exfoliation treatment, anyone?
Its not what you think, it is in fact sand straight from  the Nile, via a water truck, via our water tank.
These are the tanks that we get our water from in Juba. The water is taken straight from the Nile River without any filtration or treatment processes. On the compound we let the water settle in one tank before we pump it into a second tank and add water treatment. We also then filter the water using filters in the guest house and office.

Sunday, 8 April 2012

The rainy season has arrived!

Hurrah! Check it out, this was no pansy shower. I had to turn my camera off when the wind changed and started coming in horizontal through my door! It was AWEsome :-)!


Wednesday, 29 February 2012

A new recruit - the crew in the office

I'm back in Juba and yesterday our newest member of staff arrived from the UK, Claire. here she is with her new desk. The UK office sent her over with her very own table sign showing her name and job title. Here she is showing it off:

Claire, our new Grants and Information Coordinator. She likes beer and Tottenham Hotspur - we connect on the former.
When I took a picture of Claire in her new role, the rest of the team complained that I was showing favouritism. So, to ensure that you know that I love all of my team equally, here's the rest of them.

This is Anna - isn't she glam? Anna is our Health Advisor. She likes fashion magazines and things being orderly - we connect on the latter.
This is Denis, our WASH Advisor. I don't think I gave him enough time to prepare for the photo, and he looks a bit upset at me. However, on the rare occasions when we have BBQs, Denis often provides the soundtrack with a delightful mix of African tunes and power ballads.
This is Dawit, our resident expert in most things and also our Food Security Advisor. Dawit likes to pretend he's not interested and listening whenever Anna and I delve into a girly chat in the office. Dawit often joins in after we've called his bluff.
And this is me at my desk, with Anna laughing at me in the background. 

Tuesday, 28 February 2012

Omdurman

I've just spent 3 weeks in one of our field-sites, a place called Omdurman. I really liked the place and enjoyed my stay there. It was much more peaceful than Juba. I liked the rice and the goat stew and the mud huts, the outdoor showers and the long-drops. I enjoyed working with the team and was inspired by their commitment and what they'd achieved.

While I was there I was helping the team to gather some data about the impact of their programmes. Here's a map the local staff drew of the programme area. It proved a vital tool for planning the data collection.

Map of programme area drawn by local staff.
I didn't take any pictures when I was in the field because I'm scared of causing offence. However, in-between working really hard and other such noble things, I managed to take some pictures of the compound.

The tukuls that we live and sleep in.
Here's a lizard on the side of mine
The borehole behind our compound. Its been broken for 3 months so collecting the water for each day's use is a bit of a logistical challenge. Of course, we have a car, which is more than the average person in this area, so we can't complain really.
My feet in my tukul.

Tuesday, 7 February 2012

Gemma - not in Juba!

So, after 4 months in Juba, I'm now in the field doing something field-y. As I packed my bags to come, it made me feel like I was going on a Geography field-trip. My mind shot through all the field-trips that I've been on, with the long car journeys, photographing and making notes about everything, using my clip-board and head torch (not necessarily at the same time) and the sensation that every question you ask could provide useful orientation and data. Am I a geographer - yes! Am I a geek, yes yes!

Anyway, I'm here in Aweil East in Northern Bahr el Ghazal to help the team carry out a KAP (knowledge, attitudes and practices) Survey. I cannot explain how exciting it is to be here doing this after spending 4 months in HQ writing funder proposals and reports. Hopefully I'll get around to taking some pictures and provide further info in due course.

All that's left to say is: woo!